Akyaka: A Turkish Gem That Refuses to Be Forgotten
In a world where many beach resorts have succumbed to the allure of glitz and glamour, Akyaka stands as a testament to the beauty of authenticity. Picture this: a beach bathed in the warm glow of a setting sun, mountains transforming into deep purple silhouettes, and a trio of Turkish women, their hair like pepper and smoke, knitting contentedly with their toes in the sand. This is the essence of Akyaka, a small town nestled on the eastern end of Gökova Bay.
I've known Akyaka for over three decades, and it's like an old friend who hasn't changed much over the years. Back then, as a holiday representative, I'd visit weekly, checking in on clients staying in simple pansiyons. And you know what? It still retains that same charm today, unlike many other Turkish villages and resorts from the mid-1990s.
Sure, Akyaka has evolved to some extent. There are more houses and hotels, the beach has been extended, and it's now a haven for kitesurfers. But at its core, it remains a place of slow-paced, slightly ramshackle charm, a true representation of Turkey's authentic spirit.
Part of this authenticity can be attributed to Akyaka's status as one of Turkey's "slow towns." This concept focuses on preserving local traditions and culture, promoting a high quality of life, and steering clear of the worst excesses of tourist development. The town's unique vibe is also a legacy of the Turkish poet and architect Nail Çakirhan, who retired here in 1971. He built a house that seamlessly blended traditional Ottoman design with local materials, and his influence inspired others to follow suit, revitalizing local crafts, especially carpentry.
When I returned to Akyaka in 2022 with my husband, Mark, it was love at first sight. The absence of large all-inclusive resorts means it's primarily a Turkish tourist destination, attracting visitors for its excellent fish restaurants along the Azmak River, hiking trails through the Akyaka orman, or simply for a relaxing day of knitting on the beach.
Our base during our stay was the İskelem Otel, located on the other side of the pine forest, just a short drive from town. At first, we were a bit hesitant, disappointed by the sun loungers and lawned area instead of a beach. But the warm welcome from Müjgan, the charming receptionist, the breathtaking views from our room, and the swift delivery of ice-cold Efes beer quickly changed our minds.
Dinners at the İskelem were a culinary delight. We savored sea bream with crispy skin and a tangy lemon and salt twist, spiced Adana kebabs with smooth, dense lamb, silky aubergine, garlic-infused yogurt, and baklava so sticky and sweet that it sent us to bed buzzing with sugar and honey.
In the mornings, the gluttony continued with an array of dishes: crispy börek filled with feta cheese, scarlet tomatoes, leafy parsley, honey, jams, and omelets straight from the pan. I promised myself an hour of paddleboarding to work it all off, while Mark, with a more active morning planned, indulged with gusto.
For Mark, Akyaka's beauty is enhanced by its reputation as one of the Mediterranean's leading watersports destinations. The thermic winds that blow across the gulf from May to November are like clockwork, providing perfect conditions for kitesurfing and wing-foiling. Akçapinar Beach, just a short drive away, is a haven for these sports, with its shallow, sandy beach making it ideal for beginners.
Beyond the town and its blustery beach, there's plenty to explore. Göcek, with its gulets and sleek sailing vibe, the serene blue waters of Lake Köyceğiz surrounded by sweetgum forests, and the breathtaking Muğla market on Thursdays, which involves a thrilling drive up into the mountains. It's a world away from the typical tourist traps, offering a truly authentic Turkish experience.
Finding these authentic gems is what makes Turkey such a special holiday destination today. The country is evolving, moving away from its traditional role as a summer sun destination for all. It's now a more diverse place, with luxury resorts, health tourism, and all-inclusive ghettos. Hyperinflation and economic policies have driven up prices, making Turkey less of a budget option.
But places like Akyaka refuse to be categorized. If you seek a resort primarily catering to domestic tourists, you'll find more reasonable prices. One of our favorite spots is the Azmak Çorba Salonu, where a fresh-baked pide, grilled chicken, and a tangy sumac parsley salad for two costs around £30.
If you're seeking late-night cocktail bars, Michelin-starred restaurants, or swanky spa resorts, Akyaka might not be your cup of tea. It's not polished or flashy, but it's undeniably beautiful. It's Turkish coffee and simit for breakfast, backgammon on the jetty in the afternoon, and iced Efes as the sun sets over Gökova Bay. Akyaka makes me wonder, why would I go anywhere else in Turkey? I might even be inspired to take up knitting.
Rooms at the İskelem start from £105-£260 B&B, and the beachfront Yücelen offers traditional Ottoman design (doubles from £95 B&B).
